Spring — March to May
Spring arrives late and slowly in Riga. March is still cold and often grey (0–6°C), with the Daugava River sometimes carrying ice well into the month. By April temperatures lift to 5–12°C and the city visibly wakes up — parks turn green, café terraces reopen, and the long winter dark starts to recede fast as daylight hours climb. May is the most reliably pleasant spring month, with daytime highs of 12–18°C and noticeably longer, brighter days.
Riga's spring is defined more by light than by warmth — the transition from the short, dim winter days to near-midsummer daylight is dramatic, and locals treat the first genuinely warm weekend as a small event, filling the Esplanade and the riverbank.
Key events: Staro Rīga, a light festival held in November in most years but occasionally shifted, is not a spring event, but Easter weekend brings a market to Doma laukums with painted eggs and traditional crafts. Late May sees the city's parks and the Art Nouveau district's window boxes come fully into bloom, which is the best time to photograph Alberta iela.
What to pack: a proper jacket for March and early April, layers for the unpredictable middle of the season, and lighter clothing plus a light rain shell for May. Waterproof shoes are useful — spring in Riga is often damp.
Summer — June to August
Summer is short but genuinely lovely, and the best season to visit. June is the standout month: temperatures of 16–22°C, and around the summer solstice the city gets close to 18 hours of daylight, with the sky never fully dark. July and August are the warmest months, typically 18–24°C, occasionally pushing into the high 20s during a heatwave, though Riga rarely gets oppressively hot — the Gulf of Riga keeps things moderate.
This is when the city moves outdoors: the Old Town's squares fill with outdoor dining, the Esplanade and riverbank become social spaces, and Jūrmala's beach, 30 minutes away by train, gets genuinely busy with both locals and visitors. Rain showers are common even in summer — pack for both sun and rain in the same day.
Key events: Jāņi (Līgo and Jāņi, Midsummer, June 23–24) is Latvia's most important festival — bonfires, wreath-making, folk singing, and staying up through the short night are national traditions, and much of Riga empties out as people head to the countryside, so book accommodation early if visiting around this date. The Riga City Festival (Rīgas svētki), usually in August, fills the Old Town with concerts, a flower market, and fireworks over the Daugava. Positivus, Latvia's largest music festival, is held in Salacgrīva, about 100km north of Riga, and is a popular day-trip or overnight excursion from the city in July.
What to pack: light layers, a rain jacket regardless of forecast, and a light sweater for cooler evenings — even in July, evenings can drop to 12–14°C. Sunglasses for the long daylight hours.
Autumn — September to November
September is a genuinely good month — mild days (13–18°C), cooler nights, and noticeably fewer visitors than summer. The Art Nouveau district's facades look particularly good in the low autumn light. October brings a sharper drop (7–13°C), shorter days, and more frequent rain, while by November temperatures hover around 2–7°C, days are short and grey, and the first frosts and occasional light snow appear.
Autumn is when Riga's café culture comes into its own — this is the season for sitting inside somewhere warm with black bread, smoked fish, and coffee while the weather does its thing outside. It's also mushroom and berry season in Latvia's forests, which shows up on menus across the city.
Key events: Staro Rīga, a large light-art festival, typically lights up the Old Town and key landmarks in November, drawing crowds for installations projected onto buildings including the House of the Blackheads and Riga Cathedral. Riga's opera and concert season ramps up through autumn as the weather turns. By late November, the city starts preparing for its Christmas market in Doma laukums.
What to pack: a warm, wind-resistant jacket, layers underneath, and a proper umbrella from October onward. Waterproof boots are worth it by November.
Winter — December to February
Riga winters are long, dark, and genuinely cold. December through February average −5 to 2°C, with cold snaps regularly dropping well below −10°C. Snow is common and often settles for weeks at a time, and the Daugava can partially freeze. Daylight is scarce — around six hours in December — which shapes the whole rhythm of the city more than the cold does.
Despite the dark, this is when the Old Town looks its best: snow on the medieval rooftops and the Art Nouveau facades has a genuine fairy-tale quality, and the low tourist numbers mean a much more local, unhurried atmosphere. Latvians are indoor-adapted — cafés, wine bars, and restaurants stay warm and full through the season.
Key events: the Christmas market in Doma laukums (Cathedral Square) runs from late November into early January and is among the most atmospheric in Northern Europe — wooden stalls, mulled wine (glögi), and a large decorated Christmas tree in a tradition Riga claims dates back centuries. New Year's Eve draws crowds to the Old Town for fireworks over the river. January and February are the coldest, quietest months — good for budget travel, hard for anyone who needs daylight.
What to pack: a heavy, genuinely warm winter coat, thermal layers, insulated waterproof boots, a hat, gloves, and a scarf. The cold off the Gulf of Riga has real bite, and the short daylight hours make warm, dry feet non-negotiable.